In 2019, after Phillip stepped off trail at Trout Lake, I continued north on my own. This next stretch of the Pacific Crest Trail in Washington would take me past Mount Adams, across glacier-fed rivers, through wildflower meadows, and over the dramatic ridgeline of Goat Rocks Wilderness.
If you missed the beginning of this adventure, you can read Part One: Backpacking the Washington Pacific Crest Trail from Cascade Locks to Trout Lake.
Backpacking Goat Rocks Wilderness is legendary among PCT hikers — and for good reason. It’s beautiful, challenging, and unforgettable. This is Part Two of my 2019 Washington PCT adventure, from Trout Lake to White Pass.
Leaving Trout Lake without Phillip felt strange. We had shared miles, blisters, and plenty of laughs during the first section, and suddenly I was on my own. But that’s part of backpacking — learning to keep moving even when your crew changes.
The trail quickly reminded me that Washington miles aren’t easy. Long climbs, rocky tread, and fickle weather kept me on my toes. But every mile north felt like progress toward something bigger.
The trail wound around the base of Mount Adams, one of the giants of the Cascades. The burn zones were stark and eerie — blackened trees standing like skeletons against the skyline.
But then the views opened up. From the right angle, Adams loomed so close it felt like I could reach out and touch the glaciers. Camping beneath that massive peak was humbling. It was one of those nights where you can’t help but sit in silence, staring at the mountain until the stars take over the sky.
North of Adams came one challenge after another: glacier-fed river crossings. The water was icy, powerful, and relentless. Picking the right spot to cross meant balancing safety with the knowledge that every delay ate into daylight.
But then came the reward — vast wildflower meadows that felt like something out of a postcard. Purple, yellow, and red blooms painted the landscape, and the trail cut right through them. After days of damp socks and sore feet, the sight of those meadows was pure medicine.
Finally, I reached the heart of Goat Rocks Wilderness, and it blew me away. The Knife’s Edge — a narrow, exposed ridgeline with steep drop-offs on both sides — tested my nerves and my balance. The wind howled, pushing me sideways with every step.
But the views? Absolutely unreal. Jagged peaks, glaciers, and valleys stretched out for miles. It’s the kind of scenery that makes all the hard miles worth it. Backpacking Goat Rocks Wilderness is tough, but it’s also one of the most rewarding stretches of the entire PCT.
When you spend long days on the trail, your mind starts to wander. I thought about my family, about Major Adventure Co., about the next goals I want to chase. I listened to audiobooks when I needed distraction and hiked in silence when I needed clarity.
That’s the beauty of backpacking — the trail isn’t just about physical miles, it’s about the space it gives your mind.
After days of battling wind, rain, and rocky tread, I arrived at White Pass. Goat Rocks had given me everything I came for — challenge, beauty, and memories I’ll carry forever.
That wrapped up my 2019 push through Washington. It was a trip full of lessons, struggles, and some of the most unforgettable scenery I’ve ever experienced.
The following summer, in 2020, I picked the trail back up at White Pass and hiked north to Snoqualmie. That section brought new challenges and some of my most memorable trail nights. Read about that trip here.
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