Backpacking the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim: Bright Angel Trail

Backpacking the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim has been on my adventure list for years. I’ve hiked long trails like the Pacific Crest Trail and logged plenty of miles running and biking, but nothing really prepares you for dropping into — and climbing back out of — the Grand Canyon. This trip, I took on the Bright Angel Trail Rim to Rim route, and it turned out to be one of the hardest yet most rewarding challenges I’ve ever faced.

Starting at Bright Angel Trailhead

I kicked off my hike at 6:00 a.m. at the Bright Angel Trailhead on the South Rim. My goal: hike nearly 25 miles across the Grand Canyon in a single day, finishing at the North Rim. That meant descending thousands of feet into the canyon, crossing the Colorado River on the suspension bridge, and then climbing back up over 5,500 feet of elevation.

I knew it was going to be tough — I even told myself, “this is going to suck.” But I also knew it would be amazing. Standing at the rim before sunrise, the canyon looked like a giant brown scar across the desert. But as I dropped lower, the walls closed in, the colors popped, and I realized just how jaw-droppingly gorgeous this place really is.

Into the Canyon: From Brown Walls to a Green Oasis

When you first look down into the Grand Canyon from the South Rim, it almost seems muted — endless layers of brown rock and dust. Impressive, yes, but not as jaw-dropping as you’d think. The magic happens when you actually drop into it.

As I descended the Bright Angel Trail, the colors came alive. Reds, oranges, and golds shifted with the light, and soon enough I was surrounded by a canyon that felt alive in a way you can’t see from above. Crossing the suspension bridge over the Colorado River was a highlight — that’s when the canyon really revealed its full beauty.

What surprised me most was how lush and green the North side of the canyon is compared to the South. Down in the inner canyon, I found stretches of cottonwood trees and flowing water that felt like hidden oases in the desert. For miles at a time, I was cruising on relatively flat ground, soaking in the views and making up time before the real climb began.

The Grind: Climbing to the North Rim

After a quick lunch and some electrolytes, I found my pace — cruising at three to four miles an hour through the flatter sections of the canyon. It felt incredible to move like that, surrounded by cliffs and greenery I never expected to see in the desert.

But then came the climb. Around mile 20, I started to hit that dreaded wall. My body wasn’t tired from the downhill — it was the uphill that crushed me. My legs were on fire, and around mile 23 I cramped up hard. That’s when I realized my mistake: I hadn’t eaten a snack in about eight miles. Rookie move. Once I refueled, I felt a little better, but it was still a brutal push.

By the time the sun dipped below the horizon, I was still two miles from the North Rim, grinding up switchbacks by headlamp. At that point, I had to ask myself: do I really need to push through, or should I camp? The smart choice won. I set up my tent, crawled into my sleeping bag, and let the canyon silence lull me to sleep.

Sunrise on the Canyon Rim

Waking up on that exposed ridge was cold — but watching the sunrise over the Grand Canyon from my tent was worth every shiver. Seeing the light spill across the cliffs and illuminate the canyon walls reminded me why I do these tough hikes in the first place.

That final morning, I packed up, stretched out my tired legs, and tackled the last two miles of switchbacks to the North Rim. It was grueling, but the finish line was right there.

After waiting a few hours for my shuttle back to the South Rim (thank you to my wife for convincing me not to attempt a Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim this time), I finally headed out, already dreaming about my next big trek.

What I Learned on the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim

Here are a few takeaways if you’re thinking about hiking the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim or tackling the Bright Angel Trail Rim to Rim:

• Start Early: I hit the trail at 6 a.m., and still finished after dark. More daylight = more margin.
• Train for the climb, not just the distance. Twenty-five miles is tough, but it’s the 5,500 feet of elevation gain and loss that really test you.
• Bring proper gear. A 20-degree sleeping bag was just enough for the cold nights on the rimBackpacking the Superstition Mo…. Wool socks were a game changer when my shoes froze overnight.
• Fuel often. Don’t wait until you’ve gone eight miles without eating — that’s when you hit the wallBright Angel Trail Rim to Rim ….
• Plan your water. In spring, streams are plentiful in the canyon, but you’ll want a filter and a backup planBackpacking the Superstition Mo….
• Know your limits. I wanted to attempt a Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim, but taking the shuttle back after finishing one way was the right call

Why This Hike Stands Out

The Grand Canyon Rim to Rim hike is more than just a bucket-list item — it’s a lesson in humility and grit. You’ll sweat, struggle, and maybe even shiver through a cold night, but the reward is unmatched. Standing in the canyon as the sun rises, surrounded by layers of glowing red rock and unexpected greenery, is something I’ll never forget.

And while this post is all about the Grand Canyon, I’d be remiss not to mention another incredible Arizona trek. If you’re looking for a different kind of desert adventure, check out my story on Backpacking the Superstition Mountains — a two-passage journey on the Arizona Trail that surprised me with its hidden streams and breathtaking ridgelines.