Backpacking White Pass to Snoqualmie: Pacific Crest Trail 2020

In 2019, I backpacked the Pacific Crest Trail through southern Washington, finishing at White Pass. The next summer, I came back to pick up where I left off — backpacking White Pass to Snoqualmie Pass.

This was 2020, right in the middle of the pandemic. The trail felt empty, almost eerie at times, but it gave me space to hike through some of the most stunning parts of Washington without seeing another soul. It wasn’t easy — busted trekking poles, long water carries, smoky mishaps, and knee pain tested me daily. But the payoff? Lakeside camps, alpine ridges, starry skies, and some of the most beautiful miles I’ve ever walked.

This is the story of my backpacking White Pass to Snoqualmie adventure on the PCT.

Mosquitoes, Broken Poles, and First Nights Out

The first night I set up camp near Buch Lake after hiking late into the evening. A fire crackled beside me while mosquitoes swarmed — a rough welcome back to trail life. By the next day, I’d already snapped a Costco trekking pole. Not exactly the confidence boost I wanted on day one.

But even with the rough start, the trail gave me gifts. Falling asleep to the sound of waves on the lake, waking up with alpine light reflecting on ridgelines, and realizing — this was exactly where I wanted to be.

Sourdough Gap and the Solitude of 2020

One of the toughest stretches was climbing up and over Sourdough Gap. The sun beat down, the trail climbed relentlessly, and I was completely alone. Thanks to COVID, hardly anyone was out here.

At first, it was eerie. But then it hit me — I had this whole wild place to myself. Panoramic mountain views stretched in every direction. I wished everyone could see it, but I also felt incredibly lucky to be the only one standing there.

Nights at the Cabin

A few days in, I stayed at the Urich Cabin with a handful of other hikers — one of the only times I shared camp this section. We built a fire in the meadow, watched the stars flood the sky, and swapped stories late into the night.

I tried to do a good deed by lighting the wood stove inside the cabin, but it backfired when smoke filled the place in minutes. We ended up sleeping on the porch, fending off a very determined mouse that kept going for our food bags. Even with the chaos, it was one of those trail nights I’ll never forget.

Knee Pain, Music, and Bear Country

My knee gave me trouble on the downhills, slowing me down, but I managed to keep steady miles. To keep bears away during late-night stretches through huckleberry thickets, I blasted music from my phone speaker. Not exactly Leave No Trace, but better than surprising a black bear at dusk.

Some days were long — 22, 23, even 24 miles — and I ended more than one night completely drained, chugging water and collapsing into camp just before dark.

Rolling into Snoqualmie Pass

After pushing through nearly 70 miles, I finally dropped into Snoqualmie Pass. The last stretch was a grind — 50 miles in two days — but nothing motivates like town food and a bed. My wife booked me a room at the Summit Inn, and I’ll never forget how good that burger, beer, shower, and hot tub felt after days of sweat, smoke, and trail grime.

Lessons from Backpacking White Pass to Snoqualmie

Backpacking White Pass to Snoqualmie taught me a few key lessons I won’t forget:

• Gear fails fast. Cheap trekking poles won’t last in the Cascades.
• Sleep setup matters. Don’t camp on a slope unless you want a night of throbbing ankles.
• Trail community thrives. Even in 2020, there were moments of connection.
• The payoff is real. From alpine ridges to quiet lakes, this section rivals the best of Washington.

Wrapping Up

Backpacking the PCT from White Pass to Snoqualmie was one of the most rewarding stretches I’ve hiked. It tested me physically with knee pain and long miles, but it also reminded me why I love this trail — for the beauty, the surprises, and the feeling of being alive in the wilderness.

👉 If you missed the first part of this journey, check out Cascade Locks to White Pass (2019). And if you want to see how I closed out Washington, don’t miss my Stevens Pass to Canada hike in 2023.